Always check the pattern corrections page for changes.
Match the two pieces of the Sand pattern overlapping in the pink zone until the words line up. I find it easiest to do this on a window or light box. Then tape the two together with a smidge of tape. Once each side is ironed in place, remove the tape before ironing that spot down/together.
THE TOP EDGE OF THE SAND SHOULD BE SMOOTH! Just cut smoothly over that little divot if the printer skipped part of your pattern.
Arrange all of the pieces on your background and pin them down before you begin appliquéing. Some pieces are tucked under other pieces. THIS IS BLOCK 2, but this shows what I mean.
TIP: Fold down the top edge of your background. It sort of makes the piece smaller and easier to work with. I use either long pins or binder clips to hold the fold.
BUILDING A:
Base: Seed stitch. Backstitch on the left side from the sand to the cotton tower fabric. Backstitch on the right side from the tower fabric down to Block B’s roof (like just 3 stitches). When I seed stitch I work along a diagonal to make my lines less noticeable.
Tower: Back stitch diagonally across each square following the pattern of the fabric. Add 15-20 tortoise shell heshi beads 1/4 inch, sewn over top of the circles in the fabric pattern.
Window Frame: Using SP5 In the Reds, buttonhole stitch. If yours “cuts” the top corner like mine, either make a double stitch there or using your applique thread to tack it in place.
Window: Using SP5 Smoke backstitch around the window.
Teardrop top: Using SP5 Burnished Gold
1. copy the stitch guide using press and seal. 2. Place it over your wool.
3. Sew 8 backstitches between each cross hatch. 4. You may have to improvise as the press and seal shifts slightly as you stitch.
REMOVE THE PRESS & SEAL NOW.
Then weave a double pekinese. All of the middle rows of backstitches will be woven from both sides.
Fill the gaps at the bottom where the Pekinese starts with extra crossstitches. Back stitch along the bottom edge.
Whip the backstitches with gold seed beads—not along the bottom edge.
BUILDING B:
Roof: Straight stitch sides & bottom, buttonhole stitches along the top 1/4 inches apart, stair step the inside stitches, add beads to the ends of each stitch.
I mark the roof using pins.
I usually take them out as I go, but I left them in so you could see how I use them.
Doorway: Closed Buttonhole Stitch. Outline windows with a stem stitch. Door: Backstitch.
Background: Mark the sashiko stitch guide A on Press & Seal. Stitch ONLY the zigzag lines. REMOVE THE PRESS & SEAL.
Stitch the up and down stitches. Stitch all the way from top to bottom like typical sashiko.
BUILDING C:
Outside border & windows: Backstitch, then whip.
Vertical bars along the top: Evenly space 9 needle weave bars between the red stripe & the top of the building. Make 2 rows of stepped cable chain stitch in the stripe.
Green squares: 4mm ribbon. Sheaf stitch. First horizontally, then vertically taking care to not fold the ribbon.
Building D:
This one we can’t use press & seal because we are using beads first. I used pins near the edges to mark a grid on my wool. Then I would finish one row and move my bottom pins down. Use bugles and seed beads. Make a pattern of the beads. Note the beads are slightly inside the edge of the wool and the pattern ends an ample 1/4 inch from the right edge of the wool for a seam allowance. For me it was easier to make sure my seed beads were in the correct place and then go back and add the bugle beads.
Backstitch squares inside each diamond.
Couch two strands as a border with plain floss on left side and top (wait to finish right side until block 1&2 have been sewn together) Couch 1 strand around windows.
Dome: Stem stitch around and segment the dome.
Sand:
Chain stitched along the top edge. You can add stitches to make it look like 2 separate sand hills, or you can wait until Block 4 is attached and add that line beyond the seam (this is what I did). Also, if your sand doesn’t quite look like mine, it is because I accidentally cut mine in the wrong place and had to patch it together with scraps. :/
Palm Tree:
Palm leaves are stitched with a very closely stitched raised fishbone. Close like the one on the left, not like the one on the right. The wool background will barely show through.
Trunk: Backstitch around the trunk, then buttonhole stitch the trunk layers, varying the height of the stitches.
Grasses: Add a few short grass blades (straight stitch & lazy daisy —couched as needed) to the base of the palm tree. Since this palm tree is further away, make them shorter and fewer than will be near the other trees and sheep.
Woo Hoo! You are ready for block 2! If you have any questions you can email me at: rachelleludwinski@gmail.com
